San Miguel de Allende: Girls on Tour 2025
Expect the Unexpected
We knew the routine. Our driver stood at the left entrance to the airport. We greeted him, then headed straight to the ATM to load up with Mexican pesos. Cash Rules in the world of Power Shoppers, and we needed pesos to work our negotiating magic in the shops of San Miguel de Allende.
We had our choice of four ATMs from two different banks. BFF chose a BBVA machine, and I went to BanBajio.
Strike one! Transacción no permitida. We changed machines and re-entered our transactions. Strike two! Transacción no permitida. I tried my card in BBVA, and BFF tried hers in BanBajio. Strike three! Transacción no permitida. We got the message - BBVA and BanBajio weren’t interested in doing business with us.
Transacción no permitida is a common message on the ATM screens in San Miguel.
However, as a frequent visitor to SMA, I was a seasoned pro at outwitting the notoriously temperamental banking machines. On occasions such as this, I usually turned to “Old Faithful”, an unassuming ATM that could be counted on to pump out stacks of pesos. Unfortunately, a few years back, Old Faithful fell out of my favor when it chewed up my Debit Card and left me peso-less for a week. It proved to be as unpredictable as all the other ATMs. I was not impressed.
After settling into our room at the beautiful heritage home of Mexican friends, we walked to the square surrounding El Jardin, in front of the iconic Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel. Old Faithful was inconspicuously nestled in an alcove on the east side of El Jardin.
The moment I spotted the diabolical trickster, Old Faithful, a wave of distrust swept over me, causing the hair on the back of my neck to bristle. It was risky dealing with this card-eater, but BFF and I were out of options. If we had to shop with plastic, we wouldn’t have any negotiating leverage with the vendors. That’s no fun.
I planted my feet firmly in front of Old Faithful, stared straight at the screen, and challenged the machine to a Mexican Standoff. The time had come to balance the scales and settle an old grievance.
I inserted my Debit Card and tapped in my PIN number. Old Faithful obliged by NOT annihilating my card. We were off to a decent start.
I kept my guard up as I answered the questions on the screen and pressed the “ENTER” key to complete the transaction. Was Old Faithful going to restore its former reputation of good standing and give me the dinero? Or was it going to find a way to sabotage my transaction and leave me without any pesos for haggling with vendors?
“Come on, Old Faithful, pull through for me!”
The ATM grumbled, rattled, and shook. Then nothing. Silence. A long pause ensued. I held my breath. BFF held her breath. We kept our eyes glued to the screen, apprehensively waiting for the machine to deliver its final verdict.
Dinero or no dinero?
Click! The cash slot opened, an itemized receipt and 4,000 pesos flipped out onto a tray. Old Faithful was redeemed and restored to my good graces. Then it also proceeded to win BFF’s favor by allotting her 5,000 pesos.
We were high rolling in the money and ready to Power Shop! (I had equivalent to $200 US, BFF had $250 US.)
San Miguel is in the mountains, 6,200 feet above sea level, 165 miles/266 kilometers Northwest of Mexico City in the center of Mexico. While its mountain location accounts for it being slightly cooler than other places in Mexico, the sun blazes intensely, making sombreros a necessity for a couple of fair-skinned redheads.
The first items on our shopping agenda were broad-brimmed sombreros. As pro shoppers, it took us three minutes to home in on a quaint shop with an eclectic selection of sombreros.
BFF selected a white sombrero with large blue feathers fanning outward on the brim. I was drawn to an orange topper with a Western flair and a pair of goggles on the hat band.
Only Women of a Certain Age can adorn themselves with lids like these and make it work.
Note: We selected less ostentatious sombreros to complement our power shopping outfits. Of course, we negotiated rock-bottom prices for our new hats.
Fully equipped with pesos and sombreros, we were ready to tackle the shops of San Miguel and do some heavy-duty shopping. Tradition cannot be broken - Mexican silver is ALWAYS numero uno on our agenda.
While modern San Miguel is recognized as a thriving community of the arts, its origins were solidly anchored in Mexico's colonial-era silver mining industry.
Strategically located in the geographic heart of Mexico, San Miguel became a significant trade and supply hub along the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro ,the Silver Route, the primary route used to transport mined silver from northern locations to Mexico City and the Atlantic Coast. The 16th-century town of San Miguel was renowned for its exceptional Baroque architecture and vibrant economic potential.
Evidence of the colonial era thrives in San Miguel de Allende to this day. Sixty-four blocks of the original El Centro area were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008. Its charm, rich history, and unsurpassed art scene attract visitors from all over the world. In fact, Travel & Leisure Magazine recognized San Miguel de Allende as the “Best City in the World in 2024”, and it gained recognition as Condé Nast Traveler’s “Best Small City in the World” in 2017, 2018, and 2020.
Relox Street was an excellent place for BFF & me to start power shopping, specifically the silver store on the corner of Relox and Mesones.
The quality and workmanship were exceptional, and the price was right. The selection was overwhelming; every piece was a stunning work of art. Eventually, I selected one neck chain and a matching bracelet. BFF had her eye on a bracelet. Of course, we didn’t pay the asking price!
With few exceptions, the exteriors of the stores looked remarkably similar. However, certain shops were entryways to labyrinths of interior boutiques and small vendors. We could venture through a small door and find ourselves consumed in a mercantile maze.
The Mexican pottery, art, furniture, and fabrics are vibrant, durable, and practical. Years ago, my friends in Mexico accused me of trying to transport San Miguel north “one piece at a time.” Guilty as charged! The decor of my house is entirely Mexican, and most of the pieces were bought in San Miguel. Occasionally, I replace or update items when I visit San Miguel.
BFF was in the market for an alebrije (ah-leh-BREE-heh) - the fantastical, infinitely unique, wood-carved creatures made by artisans primarily from Oaxaca. Carved from copal wood, alebrijes are elaborately painted, and their forms are as vast and imaginative as the artists who make them.
My favorite alebrije artisans are Zeny Fuentes and Reyna Piña Ramirez from the village of San Martín Tilcajete, Oaxaca. The 150 families that create alebrijes in San Martin welcome visitors to their workrooms - they will even encourage you to try your hand at painting an alebrije. It is not easy!
After combing San Miguel’s cobblestone streets in search of unique bargains and treasures, we planned a spa day in the nearby town of Atotnilco. The village is renowned for its 18th-century church, the Santuario de Atotonilco, a designated World Heritage Site. The church is known as the “Sistine Chapel of Mexico” because its interior is adorned with intricate and beautiful Baroque-style murals that depict the life of Christ.
After visiting the magnificent Sistine Chapel of Mexico, BFF and I went straight over to the nearby resort where we had our spa services scheduled.
Pictures can be deceiving. The spa did not offer us luxurious towels, head wraps, fresh flowers, or soothing cucumbers. Instead, we were scrubbed from head to toe with salts like we were a couple of tough briskets of beef, then sent to the shower.
No towels, no robes… just two salty redheads in the BUFF running the 100-yard dash down the main corridor of the spa.
Afterward, I had a facial, and BFF had a foot massage - both services were subpar. For example, my technician tried to massage my scalp by glopping facial cream on top of my head — instead, she tangled my hair into a heap of greasy, gooey knots. We rated our spa experience 2/10.
Our airport transportation from Bestur, my friend Efrain’s company, arrived to drive us to the airport in Leon for our return flight to the USA. We said farewell to our gracious hosts and their beautiful home.
BFF and I both know we will return to San Miguel de Allende. For me, it is my Mexican home away from home.
Your adventures are wonderful!
And your story telling puts us right there with you!
Now I understand why you chose the decor at the house!
Great writing Lois. SMA is one of our favorite places in Mexico.